How does it work:
The CAT (Classic All Terrain)
ski is a hybrid of a snow ski and a roller ski. The CAT
ski consists of a bottom ski with grippers on the bottom to keep
it from slipping on the ground. Mounted on top of this ski is
a mini-roller ski. The mini roller ski can slide back and forth
on top of the ski. The CAT ski work by the mini-roller
ski gliding over the top of the
bottom ski (Note: The bottom ski doesn't slide on the ground).
After gliding to the front of the bottom ski on the mini roller
ski, the skier will shift their weight to the other ski. This
weight shift to the other ski allows the bottom ski to shoot
forward with the aid of bungis and the cycle start all over again
on the other ski. By using this system you have a perfect ski
trail where ever you go. The bungis that are used to shoot the
ski forward are also use for resistance. By using different resistance
bungis, the skier can simulate a variety of ski slopes. The more
the resistance a bungi provides the steeper the hill it simulates.
Roller ski manufactures have been trying to make Classic All
Terrain ski for over 100 years with little to no success. They
have also been trying to make a classic roller ski that would
push and glide like a ski on snow. The CAT ski has solved
both of these problems. Other wheeled, classic roller skis teach
bad habits, such as pushing off the toe excessively and shuffling.
The CAT ski allows the skier to push off the whole foot
or the heel and doesn't allow the skier to push off the toe excessively.
It accomplishes this by having a short roller ski gliding across
a slippery surface. If you push from the heel to whole foot you
get a good kick because your body weight is pushing 90 degrees
or vertical to the ski. If you push off your toe you have less
weight pushing vertically on the ski and thus a higher likelihood
of slipping. The majority of classic skiers shuffle. Shuffling
means that you are not have a complete weight shift from ski
to ski. You can identify this problem easily by seeing if your
ski completely leaves the ground at the end of the push phase.
If your ski never leaves the gound (the tip of the ski can still
touch) you are not having a complete weight shift. If you try
to shuffle on the CAT ski the ski will not shoot forward
properly or won't shoot forward at all. This is what causes a
CAT skier to stumble. You need a complete weight shift
to allow the non-weight bearing ski to shoot forward.
You can only stride on the CAT ski. It is not possible
to double pole or kick double pole on the CAT skis. If
you try it, you will most likely stumble. The CAT ski
simulates classic striding technique only.
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The CAT ski comes with two bungis: a medium bungi and stiff bungi. You can tell the two apart by the color of the ties. The medium bungi has a white plastic tie. The stiff bungi has black plastic tie. When you get the skis you will notice two bungis on each ski. Take one of the bungis off before using the ski, and make sure you have the same color bungi on each ski.
If you want more resistance use the stiff bungi with the black tie. This will decrease your gliding distance and increase the workout intensity. On hilly terrain you will need to use the softer bungi with the white tie on it . With practice you will find the optimum bungi for your CAT ski course.
The front and rear wheels on the CAT Ski are ratcheted.
If you want to push off the whole foot you will need the front
and rear wheel ratcheted. I recommend having both wheels ratcheted
when you are first learning how to CAT Ski. If you are
slipping a lot you may want to make sure they are both ratcheted.
The ratchets can become disengaged if the axle bolt becomes loose.
Just tight the bolt with a wrench and allen wrench which should
engage the ratchet system again.
For more advance technique and to build more upper body strength
you may want to de-ratchet the rear wheel. You de-ratchet the
front wheel by slightly loosening the front axle bolt with an
allen wrench and a wrench. The wheel should now move in both
clockwise and counter clockwise directions. By de-ratcheting
the front wheel you must push more from the heel and with your
upper body to keep from slipping. This provides excellent technique
work. I would recommend bring tools to tighten the front wheel
when doing this, so if you get tired you can re-ratchet the front
wheel.
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